Meet Our Teachers:
Amy Herzog, Courtney Kelley and Catherine Lowe
Want to Register? Questions? Please contact Lori Horak at lorih@sohopub.com or 212 937 2554
Amy Herzog
Amy Herzog loves helping knitters create garments they love to wear. She’s the creator of the CustomFit pattern generator and the author of Knit to Flatter, Knit Wear Love, and You Can Knit That (all published with Abrams). She teaches across the country and on Craftsy.com, and her designs have been published in Rowan, Interweave Knits, and more. She lives in Connecticut with her husband, two boys, two cats, and the button stash she collects instead of yarn. Find out more at www.amyherzogdesigns.com.
Courtney Kelley
Courtney Kelley is the co-owner of Kelbourne Woolens, a yarn company with a focus on high quality, natural fiber yarns for the dedicated crafter. She graduated from The School of the Art Institute of Chicago in 2001 with a focus in Fiber and Material Studies and immediately began working in a knitting shop while attempting to become an artist. She stayed in the knitting world after a brief foray into the world of fine art, and founded Kelbourne Woolens along with her business partner, Kate Gagnon Osborn, in 2008. A designer at heart, she loves knitting and designing lace as well as making as many sweaters as possible. Courtney lives in Philadelphia with her partner and three children.
Catherine Lowe
Catherine Lowe is known for her original and unique construction techniques and her pairing of luxury fiber with elegant design. She has developed an approach to hand-knitting that rethinks the traditional technical and design vocabularies of the hand-knitter and translates the distinctive elements of haute couture dressmaking into refined techniques. Her designs have appeared in Vogue Knitting, Interweave Knits, and knit.wear. Her articles on couture knitting technique have been featured in Vogue Knitting; she has been profiled in Interweave Knits, Knitting Lessons by Lela Nargi, KnitKnit: Profiles + Projects from Knitting’s New Wave by Sabrina Gschwandtner, and in knit.wear. For more information, visit catherine-lowe.com and knittingwithcompany.com.
Carol MacDonald
Artist and printmaker Carol MacDonald will present her work and talk about her ideas around translating knit into print. She creates an evocative visual vocabulary printing from actual fabric that she knits and from plates that she develops. This is a peak into her journey as she makes visible what we all know and intuit about the power of knitting.
Our Classes
Amy's Classes
Amy Herzog: Make Yourself a Custom (and Awesome) Raglan (NEW!) (Full Day)
Raglan sweaters hold out the promise of being some of the most comfortable and simple garments you’ll ever knit—who doesn’t love a sweatshirt, after all? But too often, they fall short of our hopes—bunchy armpits, droopy shoulders, and necklines that slip off. How do you construct a raglan pattern that solves these issues and produces a sweater you can’t wait to wear?
In this class, we’ll go through raglans in detail—from the different ways they can be constructed (bottom-up vs. top-down, seamed vs. one-piece, with symmetrical armholes vs. not), to when you should work them one way vs. another, to the kinds of fabric that suit them best, to the ways they should fit. We’ll then draft a custom-fitting basic raglan pattern for each student, and talk through ways to embellish them to suit your preference.
Technique Requirements: Knit/purl; cast on/bind off; increase/decrease; basic finishing techniques; have knit a few accessories; have knit a whole garment
Homework:
Please complete the specified portions of this measurement sheet for yourself (we’ll do the rest in class), and make a good-sized swatch (at least 5" x 5") out of the fabric you’d like to use for your raglan. Bring the swatch washed and dried.
Supplies to Bring:
Supplies to Bring:
Please bring in a swatch or two of a sweater fabric you really like (optional)
*This is a two-part class, you must register for both parts
Amy Herzog: Sweaters, Deconstructed (Full Day)
Spend an entire day talking sweaters with me! This full-day workshop covers several of my most popular topics in one great session – so please don’t sign up for this class and any of: Knit to Flatter, Mindful Modifications, You Can Knit That, or Creating Successful Sweaters.
There’s so much more to sweater knitting than just the knitting, and this class gives you all of the tools you need to make your next sweater a smashing success. We everything that goes into making a great sweater:
Silhouette and Visual Elements: What kinds of sweaters will flatter your body shape? What is a body shape, anyway? How do you know whether you’ll like the way that gorgeous pattern photo works for you? Amy demystifies clothing and shows you how to make choices you’ll love.
Fit: You’ll learn how to choose a size well, set yourself up for the easiest modifications possible, and how to execute those modifications like a pro.
Fabric and Stitch patterning: We’ll cover swatching accurately for gauge and testing your fabric, matching fiber and fabric to design, and all of your questions about stitch patterning in sweaters.
Student Q&A is a big part of the class, too, so bring your own questions to class, and let’s talk sweaters!
Silhouette and Visual Elements: What kinds of sweaters will flatter your body shape? What is a body shape, anyway? How do you know whether you’ll like the way that gorgeous pattern photo works for you? Amy demystifies clothing and shows you how to make choices you’ll love.
Fit: You’ll learn how to choose a size well, set yourself up for the easiest modifications possible, and how to execute those modifications like a pro.
Fabric and Stitch patterning: We’ll cover swatching accurately for gauge and testing your fabric, matching fiber and fabric to design, and all of your questions about stitch patterning in sweaters.
Student Q&A is a big part of the class, too, so bring your own questions to class, and let’s talk sweaters!
Skill Level: Adventurous knitters of all skill levels, though you will get more out of the class if you’ve knit a garment of some kind. (Baby sweaters are perfect!)
Materials: Please bring in a few different blocked swatches for fabric discussions (optional). Please also take a body shape photo (if you want personalized analysis) – instructions attached.
*This is a two-part class, you must register for both parts
Courtney's Classes
Courtney Kelley: Bohus Knitting (Full Day)
The Swedish workshop founded by Emma Jacobsson, Bohus knitting, is best known for its beautiful hand-knitted items made famous in the late 1930s through the ‘60s for their attention to detail, innovative design and color, and exacting standards of craftsmanship. Traditional Bohus patterns utilized a fine-weight angora and wool blend to create a gorgeous halo and tonal gradations of color. The addition of purl stitches and the sometimes third—or fourth or fifth—color per row opened up limitless design possibilities for the knitter. In this class we will learn a bit about the history of Bohus knitting, as well as the technique used to create its masterful effects.
Technique Requirements: Knit/purl; cast on/bind off; increase/decrease; working in the round; have knit a few accessories; easy colorwork
Homework:
None
Supplies to Bring:
Supplies to Bring:
Please bring double pointed or small circular needles size 2 and 4 for working in the round. Yarn will be provided by The Fibre Co
*This is a two-part class, you must register for both parts
Courtney Kelley: Color with Courtney
Part 1: Fair Isle: Choosing Colors with Success
Fair Isle Knitting specifically refers to stranded knitting originating from Fair Isle, a tiny island in the north of
Scotland and part of the Shetland Islands. In Fair Isle knitting,
Fair Isle Knitting specifically refers to stranded knitting originating from Fair Isle, a tiny island in the north of
Scotland and part of the Shetland Islands. In Fair Isle knitting,
only 2 colors are used per round and yarn is carried for a
limited number of stitches across the back of the work. Although only two colors are worked together on any given round, designs often incorporate more
colors, up to as many as 10 or more for some very complex Fair Isle designs. This class will focus on choosing colors for the traditional designs.
Prereq’s: Students must be able to knit comfortably in the round on double pointed needles or using magic loop.
Supplies to Bring: Size 3 and 4 double pointed needles.
limited number of stitches across the back of the work. Although only two colors are worked together on any given round, designs often incorporate more
colors, up to as many as 10 or more for some very complex Fair Isle designs. This class will focus on choosing colors for the traditional designs.
Prereq’s: Students must be able to knit comfortably in the round on double pointed needles or using magic loop.
Supplies to Bring: Size 3 and 4 double pointed needles.
Part 2: Mastering Intarsia - Put a bird on it!
Master intarsia color work, the mysterious technique from yesteryear! Intarsia was very popular in the 80s, and has been making a comeback.
From Kaffe Fasset's beautiful color work coats to Mary Maxim vintage cardigans, intarsia
Master intarsia color work, the mysterious technique from yesteryear! Intarsia was very popular in the 80s, and has been making a comeback.
From Kaffe Fasset's beautiful color work coats to Mary Maxim vintage cardigans, intarsia
can add beauty and fun to your knits. We will talk
basic technique, proper tensioning of yarns, how to use (or not use) bobbins, and how to knit from
basic technique, proper tensioning of yarns, how to use (or not use) bobbins, and how to knit from
any chart without distorting the image.
Prereq's: Students should have confident knitting and purling abilities.
Supplies to Bring: 16"or 24" needles for working with DK weight yarn (US size 5-6-7)
Prereq's: Students should have confident knitting and purling abilities.
Supplies to Bring: 16"or 24" needles for working with DK weight yarn (US size 5-6-7)
*Color with Coutrney is a two-part class, Part 1 is Fair Isle and Part 2 is Mastering Intarsia.
You must register for both parts
Catherine's Class
A Couture Method for Handknitting: the Absolute Basics
For well over a century and a half, dressmakers have had access to a body of techniques that allow them to create garments of uncommon refinement, detail and craftsmanship. Catherine’s couture method for handknitting offers knitters a similar option. This class explores the premise of the method, takes a close, hands-on look at the foundational techniques, including Catherine’s unique stitch pick-up technique, and explains how they can be easily incorporated into your knitting practice, beginning with your next project. You’ll learn how
to swatch for fabric characteristics as well as for gauge, how to enhance the knitted fabric with specific characteristics through blocking techniques, how to use gauge to “engineer” your garments and ensure that they maintain their shape and fit, and how to plan for and guarantee perfect construction.
For well over a century and a half, dressmakers have had access to a body of techniques that allow them to create garments of uncommon refinement, detail and craftsmanship. Catherine’s couture method for handknitting offers knitters a similar option. This class explores the premise of the method, takes a close, hands-on look at the foundational techniques, including Catherine’s unique stitch pick-up technique, and explains how they can be easily incorporated into your knitting practice, beginning with your next project. You’ll learn how
to swatch for fabric characteristics as well as for gauge, how to enhance the knitted fabric with specific characteristics through blocking techniques, how to use gauge to “engineer” your garments and ensure that they maintain their shape and fit, and how to plan for and guarantee perfect construction.
Class Preparation: (the below can also be accessed by a PDF - download here)
Please have the swatches prepared for the class. They should be worked with the yarn described and washed and blocked following tothe directions below. Please use solid color yarns, not tweeds or variegated ones, and bring the additional yarns and notions listed to the class along with the completed swatches.
Please have the swatches prepared for the class. They should be worked with the yarn described and washed and blocked following tothe directions below. Please use solid color yarns, not tweeds or variegated ones, and bring the additional yarns and notions listed to the class along with the completed swatches.
Materials To Bring:
Yarn
A. (used for the swatches): approximately 100 yds of a light colored wool with crisp stitch definition that knits to the gauge noted below for yarns A and B. A heavy sport or light dk weight yarn should produce the required gauge. Please have approximately 20 yds of this yarn available to use during the class.
B. (to be used in the class): 15–20 yds of the same yarn as A, but in a color that contrasts with yarn A. This yarn should not be so dark that it is difficult to read the stitches.
C. (to be used in the class): 15–20 yds of a wool in a color and hand comparable to yarn B that knits at the gauge noted for yarn C. A fingering weight wool should produce the required gauge.
D. (to be used in the class): 5 yds of a fine gauge yarn with a crisp hand in a color and luster that contrasts sharply with yarns A and B. This yarn will be used as a waste yarn and will be removed from the piece once it is finished.
A. (used for the swatches): approximately 100 yds of a light colored wool with crisp stitch definition that knits to the gauge noted below for yarns A and B. A heavy sport or light dk weight yarn should produce the required gauge. Please have approximately 20 yds of this yarn available to use during the class.
B. (to be used in the class): 15–20 yds of the same yarn as A, but in a color that contrasts with yarn A. This yarn should not be so dark that it is difficult to read the stitches.
C. (to be used in the class): 15–20 yds of a wool in a color and hand comparable to yarn B that knits at the gauge noted for yarn C. A fingering weight wool should produce the required gauge.
D. (to be used in the class): 5 yds of a fine gauge yarn with a crisp hand in a color and luster that contrasts sharply with yarns A and B. This yarn will be used as a waste yarn and will be removed from the piece once it is finished.
Needles
32” circular needles in the size used to work the swatches. For most knitters this will be a 6 or 5 US / 4 mm or 3.75 mm needle; however, use whatever size needle is needed to obtain the gauge.
32” circular needles in 1, 2, 3 and 4 sizes smaller than used to work the swatches.
32” circular needles in 1 size larger than used to work the swatches.
32” circular needles in the size needed to obtain gauge for yarn C, if this size is not already included in those listed above.
32” circular needles one size smaller and one size larger than needed to obtain gauge for yarn C, if these sizes are not already included in those listed above.
0 US / 2.0 mm: 2 32” circular or 2 double point needles at least 12” long.
If you are more comfortable working with straight needles, multiple long double points may be substituted for the circulars.
32” circular needles in the size needed to obtain gauge for yarn C, if this size is not already included in those listed above.
32” circular needles one size smaller and one size larger than needed to obtain gauge for yarn C, if these sizes are not already included in those listed above.
0 US / 2.0 mm: 2 32” circular or 2 double point needles at least 12” long.
If you are more comfortable working with straight needles, multiple long double points may be substituted for the circulars.
Notions
crochet hook: C / 2.5 mm or D / 3.0 mm
tapestry needle
scissors
crochet hook: C / 2.5 mm or D / 3.0 mm
tapestry needle
scissors
Gauges
Yarns A and B: 6 stitches and 8 rows = 1”
All of the swatches should be knit at this gauge.
Yarn C: 8 stitches and 10 rows = 1”
Note that these are knitting gauges and not blocked or finished gauges.
Yarns A and B: 6 stitches and 8 rows = 1”
All of the swatches should be knit at this gauge.
Yarn C: 8 stitches and 10 rows = 1”
Note that these are knitting gauges and not blocked or finished gauges.
Please do not substitute lighter or heavier weight yarn
Swatches
Work 2 identical swatches as follows.
With yarn A cast on 20 stitches using your regular cast-on. If you regularly vary your cast-on depending upon the stitch pattern to be worked, use the cast-on you would normally use for stockinette stitch.
Row 1: (RS) purl first stitch (to establish beginning of row selvedge stitch); knit 18; knit 1 (to establish end of row selvedge stitch).
Row 2: (WS) with yarn in back of work, slip first stitch as if to knit (beginning of WS row selvedge stitch); purl 18; purl 1 (end of WS row selvedge stitch).
Row 3: (RS) with yarn in front of work, slip first stitch as if to purl through back of loop (beginning of RS row selvedge stitch); knit 18; knit 1 (end of RS row selvedge stitch).
Row 4: (WS) as row 2.
Repeat rows 3 (RS) and 2 (WS) to work the selvedge stitch pattern along the vertical edges of the stockinette stitch.
Work through row 48.
Row 48: (RS) bind off all stitches knitwise.
Wash and block the swatches following the directions below.
Work 2 identical swatches as follows.
With yarn A cast on 20 stitches using your regular cast-on. If you regularly vary your cast-on depending upon the stitch pattern to be worked, use the cast-on you would normally use for stockinette stitch.
Row 1: (RS) purl first stitch (to establish beginning of row selvedge stitch); knit 18; knit 1 (to establish end of row selvedge stitch).
Row 2: (WS) with yarn in back of work, slip first stitch as if to knit (beginning of WS row selvedge stitch); purl 18; purl 1 (end of WS row selvedge stitch).
Row 3: (RS) with yarn in front of work, slip first stitch as if to purl through back of loop (beginning of RS row selvedge stitch); knit 18; knit 1 (end of RS row selvedge stitch).
Row 4: (WS) as row 2.
Repeat rows 3 (RS) and 2 (WS) to work the selvedge stitch pattern along the vertical edges of the stockinette stitch.
Work through row 48.
Row 48: (RS) bind off all stitches knitwise.
Wash and block the swatches following the directions below.
To Wash and Block the Swatches:
Wash the swatches as you normally would and block each one to a dimension of 3” x 6” (excluding selvedge stitches and cast-on and bind-off rows). Make sure that the corners are square and that the sides are parallel so that no bias is introduced into the knitted fabric. Do not unpin them or remove them from
Wash the swatches as you normally would and block each one to a dimension of 3” x 6” (excluding selvedge stitches and cast-on and bind-off rows). Make sure that the corners are square and that the sides are parallel so that no bias is introduced into the knitted fabric. Do not unpin them or remove them from
the blocking surface until they are thoroughly dry.
