Re-gauging is the most under-exploited technique knitters have to control the stability and dimensions of the knitted fabric. While it is all but invisible, re-gauging can have a powerful and visible effect on the fit of a knitted garment as well as on a garment’s ability to maintain its shape as it is worn. In this class we’ll look at the technique in depth: what it is and how it affects knitted fabric, where and when to use it, and how to incorporate it into your regular knitting practice. We’ll establish some principles for its application and guidelines for its use, and we’ll work a few small reference samples of its most common applications. By the end of class, you’ll have a clear idea of how to exploit this technique within the context of your own knitting, beginning with your next project.
Technique Requirements: have knit a whole garment, have knit a few accessories, a good sense of the relation of gauge to knitted fabric and a familiarity with garment design and construction
During class we will work 3 small reference samples. All samples should be worked in the smooth solid color yarn noted in the materials section of the class description. “Gauge needle” indicates the size needle required to achieve a stockinette gauge of 6 stitches and 8 rows per inch working in this yarn. In order to have time to work all three samples during the class, please set up each one as follows.
Sample 1
Use a needle 4 sizes smaller than the gauge needle and some form of invisible cast-on, tubular edge, or alternating cast-on. For example, if you need a 6 US/4.0 mm needle to get gauge, begin on a size 2 US / 3.0 mm.
Cast on so that you have a total of 21 stitches set up in a k1, p1 sequence on the right side of the fabric. Once the cast-on or tubular edge has been completed, work as follows beginning on the right side of the fabric:
Rows 1–2: work k1, p1 rib or half-twist rib (see below)
Leave the live stitches on the needle with the working yarn attached.
Half-Twist Rib
multiple of 2 stitches + 1
row 1: (RS) *k1tbl, p1*, repeat between **; end row with k1tbl
row 2: (WS) *p1, k1tbl*, repeat between **; end row with p1
When worked over an odd number of stitches the pattern yields a symmetrical placement of the ribs at the beginning and end of the row and sets up a k1 / p1 pattern on the right side of the fabric.
Sample 2
Using the gauge needle, cast on 21 stitches and work 10 rows of stockinette, ending with a wrong-side row.
Leave the live stitches on the needle with the working yarn attached.
Sample 3
Using the gauge needle, cast on 92 stitches.
Row 1 (RS): with yarn in front of work, slip first stitch as if to purl through back of loop (beginning of row selvedge stitch); *k10, place marker*; repeat between ** 7 more times; knit to within 1 stitch of end of row; k1 (end of right side row selvedge stitch).
The work is now divided into 9 sections of 10 stitches each with a single selvedge stitch at the beginning and end of the row.
Row 2 (WS): work this and all subsequent wrong-side rows as follows:
with yarn in back of work, slip first stitch as if to knit (beginning of wrong-side row selvedge stitch); purl across row to last stitch, slipping markers as stitches are worked; p1 (end of wrong side row selvedge stitch).
Row 3 (RS): Work every subsequent right-side row as a Decrease Row as follows:
with yarn in front of work, slip first stitch as if to purl through back of loop (beginning of right-side row selvedge stitch); *knit to within 2 stitches of marker, work ssk over next 2 stitches, slip marker to right needle*; repeat between ** 7 times more for total of 8 times; k to within 3 stitches of end of row; ssk; k1 (end of right side row selvedge stitch).
9 stitches decreased; 9 stitches per section; 83 stitches on needle
Leave the live stitches on the needle with the working yarn attached.
Please feel free to contact me—catherine@catherine-lowe.com—if you have any questions.
A total of approximately 75 yds of a solid color, smooth yarn that produces a stable fabric at 6 stitches and 8 rows to an inch. This includes the yardage needed to complete the homework. Please do not use roving or novelty, bouclé or tweed yarn. Needles five sizes smaller through one size larger than the needle needed to produce a stable fabric with the chosen yarn.